| Antarctica
- A semi circumnavigation of the coldest, windiest highest driest
continent: but this time on the FAR SIDE! We were islolated. There
was ice. The itinerary of the expedition was written by ice.
This journey
started in the Falkland Islands where we got a brief glimpse of
a very remote and isolated island and where we saw the marked minefields
reminded us of a war fought here not that long ago.
But our mission was more peaceful and we were glad to see our ship
waiting for us offshore in Stanley. A quick Zodiac trip complete
with a dolphin display brought us to the Russian icebreaker, the
Kapitan Khlebnikov, which was to be our home for the next five weeks
as we made our way around the distant and icy shores of Antarctica's
rarely seen Far Side.
Our first stops were in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
(see separate sections for these islands) and then it was time to
make our way to the icy continent. Whoever thought of that name
sure was on track. There was lots of ice! Some days we made little
progress and often the itinerary had to be re-written. But there
was magic everywhere if you could take the time to see it. Meringue-like
ice, azure blue water, towering tabular bergs, and sunsets and sunrises
that blended together around 2am. There were whales gliding by the
ship and magical walks through Emperor Penguin colonies where these
birds sit in their isolation throughout their long dark winter.
Our visits to these colonies were, thankfully, on marvelously clear,
crisp Austral summer days.
It was great
dropping in on the Australian research stations at Davis and Mawson
where the teams welcomed us warmly: the first vistors in eighteen
months!
Then, five weeks after we began this expedition, we disembarked
in Freemantle in Australia, with more than a hint of sadness. Many
of us had become good friends as we travelled together around the
remotest region on the globe and we knew that we had shared a remarkable
journey.
(Read the
story of this journey under "Articles.")
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